37 miles, 3:55/6:00

Much of today’s ride is paved, though we are riding against the wind a lot of the time, with rain here and there near the end of the day, so it isn’t quite as easy as it could have been (I know, complain complain…).

We stop in Wise River (there’s a bar, a mercantile with one gas pump circa 1960, and a restaurant) to get groceries, and end up spending nearly $50 for one bag of food. Robert gets there just before us and says he doesn’t think the country folk know what to think of him with his jersey and shaved legs. He’s a roadie from head to toe, even though he’s riding a loaded mountain bike. Dave and I eat our ice cream bar, drink our soda, pack in our groceries and move on.

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The afternoon is spent dodging cowpies on the wet, paved road. It’s not easy. They’re everywhere. I’m not kidding. After a couple hours I’m nearly sick to my stomach from the stench and the flying cowpie-water coming off the back of Dave’s wheel as it continues to sprinkle rain. We’ve seen cows probably every single day of our tour but today I’m just irritated to the core. I don’t want to see another cow in my life. But I know I will. Probably every single day of the rest of the tour. I know they’re docile and can be cute, and lot’s of people like to eat them. But they’re stinking nasty beasts and I wish we could just grow them on another planet. Or at least keep them off the roads. OK there, I feel better. Sorry about that.

We are near what will probably be our last fire in Montana. At the campground, another beautiful but empty one by a river, ash is falling by sundown once again. We look forward to clean air and ashless picnic tables, but we do appreciate the quiet that comes with the place to ourselves. The river is wonderful and we sleep well.