76 km

It rained last night, so today started out very cool and the air smelled like a floral forest. We enjoyed a long cool morning while we cycled about 40 km on nice, packed dirt and gravel. The road surface looked like it’s been prepared for eventual paving. The newest of the many dams in this mountainous area has just been finished and the large reservoir will be filled by the end of this coming rainy season. They will allow recreation and water sports on the reservoir, and our host at the restaurant last night told us he expects the tourism in the area to really grow. I’m glad we’re riding this road while it’s still very quiet and not yet paved. This is some of my favorite riding on this tour because the mountains are lush and green and rugged and it smells so fresh and green.

At about 40 km the road narrowed and became steeper. This part of the road was even quieter and wilder, with the forest closing in around us, offering shade and the sound of thousands of whirring and buzzing insects. I have a smile plastered on my face, it is just too much fun.

Near 60 km the road passed through a couple of small villages, then widened as it dropped down to a flatter valley. It stayed quite rough all the way to Lak Sao. Coming down into the busyness and dust was like coming out of a dream. We found a room at the Souriya Hotel on the third floor with a beautiful view of the mountains along the road we’ll follow tomorrow. We spent the afternoon hiding from the heat in our a/c room watching movies on satellite TV. We’re much like my beloved Shasta dog these days: either running hard or flopped out on the floor.