10 miles, moderate effort with ups and downs on slickrock and sandy slogging

We were off-route by starting from Squaw Flat Campground within Canyonlands this morning, but it was a beautiful diversion as we walked some of the best trails to make our way through and back to the route. We headed West to Chessler Park and beyond, gradually approaching and then crossing the needles formations we’ve been seeing for a few days now. As the needles got closer and we worked our way higher, we were thankful for the high clouds and cool breeze. Then we made our way South on a sandy jeep road and then through the sandy wash bottom.

Weighed down with 8 days of food (~24 pounds) and water for a dry camp tonight and walking tomorrow (~ 42 pounds), we were a little slower than our usual pace, but it wasn’t bad. The scenery distracted us at every turn – red rock in every direction. What beauty.

TRAIL NOTES:
If you’re coming into Canyonlands and are getting a re-supply package at the Needles Outpost, leave the route and take the dirt road that you can see on the topo going South before you head up the wash to meet the main Canyonlands road, you’ll save a few miles. Don’t go cross-country because the criptobiotic soil – the Canyonlands rangers are very sensitive about this. You’ll probably want to camp at the Needles Outpost because the Squaw Flat campground usually fills by 10:30. If you’re staying for a rest day, then move to Squaw Flat early to get a good spot so the next day you can walk through the park as we did on your way out.

We had a lovely breakfast with Candy, who cooked for us again, then snagged the last camp site at Squaw Flat to have a nice start for tomorrow. She then drove us to the visitor’s center to get our backcountry permits. We had quite a conversation with the two park rangers there.

Between the ranger yesterday and the ones in the backcountry office today we learned that basically the park folks are not fond of the Hayduke route (It’s not a trail, you know, just because they called it that, it’s a route–so we heard a few times in our brief stay.) There are various complaints–hikers walking on the criptobiotic soil, burying food and water caches in the park and not retrieving them. But most surprising was that many hikers are very under prepared, mostly for the extremes of the desert: the heat of the day and freezing night temperatures, the amount of water they need, and the ruggedness of the terrain. The woman in the backcountry office said at least half of the route hikers quit at or by the time they get to Canyonlands.

We did what we could to give a better impression of prepared hikers and reassured them we know what we’re doing, but I’m afraid their outlook likely remained the same–rather negative. I hope this is something that dramatically improves over time.

Candy left us in the afternoon at our campsite, all prepared to walk on in the morning.

This is a guest post by Candy, I rendezvoused with Dave and Michelle on days 8 and 9 (Wed and Thurs, March 18-19) in Canyonlands.  They wanted me to pass along that they are having lots of fun, and are feeling fine and healthy.  They think that the weather is great and want everyone to know that they are on schedule.   I will post again on their behalf tomorrow, with more details of their adventures so far.

11.5 miles, slow with some challenges

We started out walking up Indian Creek at a good pace, jumping across several times. The morning was cool in the shade of the canyon walls and we soaked it all in, knowing we’d be sweating within a couple of hours.

Soon we climbed up out of Indian Creek canyon, removing our packs a few times to climb over ledges. Soon we were up out of the canyon and on top of the world, navigating from one “chocolate layer cake formation” to another, staying up high. In any direction we looked there was no sign of humans, it was as if we were the only people to walk here. Except for footprints of the one Hayduke hiker to come through a month before us–Haydude, as we call him.

We had received an email back in Moab from our friend Candy, who said she might join us in Canyonlands for a night. Our schedule had us at Squaw Flat campground so when we came up to the Canyonlands road we went off-route to head to the campground. Just as we got to the road a ranger came by in her truck.

She turned on her official flashing lights and stopped. First she asked if we were hiking the Hayduke (no hello) and then whether we had a backcountry permit. Yes to both, except the permit was at the visitor’s center since they won’t mail them out, but it’s OK, we just entered the park today. It was as if she distrusted and suspected us of something right away. But then she offered us a ride to the campground turnoff, which was really nice, though first we had to put all knives amd firearms in the back of the truck. (!)

During the brief ride we heard complaints about the Hayduke route and its hikers–unprepared, tromping th criptobiotic soil, etc.. While the ranger was friendly to us, I felt as if we had to prove somehow that we knew what we were doing and that we weren’t doing anything wrong out there. It was not the kind of reception we’re used to getting on our trips.

When we got to the campground we looked around for Candy and soon she came driving up, (Yay! It’s Candy!) and scooped us off to the campground at the Needles Outpost where our re-supply package was waiting–so thoughtful! Then she took us to a camp spot she had reserved, and soon she was feeding us yummy snacks while cooking us dinner. What a friend! We enjoyed gabbing and getting caught up with each other.

TRAIL NOTES:
There was water in the canyon after lower jump. At mile 45.6 when turning up Little Spring Canyon, stay up on the ledge for a while. Drop down into the canyon at a snag marked with a cairn. There’s a big pour-off at about mile 46 to navigate, go up around the left. Squaw Flat campground fills by 10:30 starting mid-March, so leave the route early and head to the Needles Outpost by the dirt road on the topo map. Get your re-supply there and move to Squaw Flat the next morning if you’re taking a rest day.

Today was hard for me after the long day yesterday, but my body felt solid even though I was tired. Dave felt good – he’s stinkin’ tough! We had another beautiful day with warm sunny weather.

There were a few places we had to scramble up or down pour-offs or ledges, one really big one that had me scared just looking. It was the ledge we had to descend into Rustler Canyon. We found a cairn marking an impossible way, but it was actually quite possible. Just at that time we heard a group of hikers approaching below around the canyon bend. They were clearly led by a guide who knew exactly where to go, and we watched them wind up the now possible route, slowing at a climb that looked simple. I, for one, was reassured to see it done, even in the opposite of our direction. Dave, of course, was never worried at all.

TRAIL NOTES: At the pour-off into Rustler Canyon, work around the left side and look for a cairn. You climb down with good hand and foot holds a few feet here at the crack. Then walk down the shale and sandstone to the bottom. Indian Creek has plenty of water and looks reliable. Nice camp spot on slickrock by the creek a hundred yards up the creek.

21 miles, long but mostly easy

We kept a good pace right from the start on gravel and sandy dirt roads. We expected an easy 15-mile day and to be done early, but when we came to the first spring I thought the water looked less than desirable. So we continued a couple of more miles to a spring that was supposed to be piped, but it was dry. Our next option was to walk a couple of more miles to another spring – an unknown – or walk two miles off-route in the other direction to the Colorado river. We chose the river. It was some painful and serious bushwhacking for Dave to get to the water, but it was a nice camp spot and we slept like logs.

TRAIL NOTES: The spring at 19.1 should not be counted on as it was just a pot hole. The spring 2.5 miles lower was dry. The spring at Lockhart drainage ended up having plenty of water when we walked by the next day, it was a trickle down the creek bed where the road crossed, though if it is drier you may have to walk off the road to the source.

When the wind kicked up and started blowing sand, we moved camp back up by the road on a big slickrock formation. We enjoyed the view and the rest.

Miles: 13, easy

We finished section one of the Hayduke on top of Hurrah Pass, a nice steady climb with a great view on either side. We had a snack and headed down toward the Colorado. This side was a bit rougher, though still popular with ORVs, OHVs and Jeeps. We also saw a few mountain bikers, but no other walkers.

As we got down further the people thinned out and it got quiet. After a while an old rwd Chevy pickup pulled up beside us headee the same way. “Where you headed?”

“To Zion,” Dave said, “We’re hiking the Hayduke trail.”

He nodded and said, “Yeah, I’ve seen folks like you coming through.” Then he tried convincing us we needed to stay just ahead at the bed and breakfast. I said we were headed to the river and down a ways to camp, and he said there’s no camping at the river, that’s too far. He offered to drive us down to the B&B, saying he owned the land on either side. We said thanks and said we’ll go ahead and walk.

Whether on bicycles or on foot, it seems some people can’t understand that, 1) we want to be out here doing this, and 2) we can really get somewhere under our own power. That second one I admit is hard to understand until you do it.

When we got to the next turn indicated by our book, it happened to be right next to the one for the B&B – and it was posted with a sign:

NO TRESSPASSING
Violaters will be prosecuted

Well, that was our way down to the river to get water. So Dave checked the route ahead and the topos and saw that we could continue down the road on BLM land and make our way down the next drainage to the river. And we did. Therw was even a jeep track to make it easy. We saw the man in the truck about three short miles back.

We made pur camp on a sand burm at the edge of the river. We had a rest day planned for tommorow and would enjoy being close to the water. We quickly washed up in the chilly water and then made dinner.

This night whenever we awoke we heard a fiesty beaver splashing around in the river.

TRAIL NOTES:
Can’t make the turn now at mile 2.7 so either try to get water or stay at Adventure Lodge B&B or continue to about mile 5 and follow wash to river.

7 miles, easy

Today we walked out of town on a paved road and eventually a dirt road. Looking ahead, we know these first few days will be some of the easiest on the whole trip, so we try to appreciate them. The going is pretty fast but the bottoms of my feet are aching so we take a long break at the top of the climb for lunch, pictures and yoga. Slickrock bluffs are very inspiring, especially in the early spring when it is just warm enoigh to bare your toes in the sun.

When we walked down the other side to Kane Spring we felt it should be home for the night. We slept under the stars and a cottonwood tree while owls hooted good night.

15 miles, mostly easy

Much of the day was in washes, lots of winding around and through willows, tamarisk, some prickly bushes and sandy creek beds. Where the Arches road crosses Courthouse Wash, we saw a school bus parked, and soon heard its former occupants: kids in groups scattered around the wash hearing wondrous things from the rangers.

I would recommend that if you plan to do this hike and are not from the area, come a couple of days early and hike around Arches because you will not see more than one on the Hayduke route.

The last two or three miles into Moab was on the road, and while we kept a quick pace in order to reach the post office in time, my legs were sore and getting achey. We got to the post office just in time–for our package and my legs.

We stayed at the Bowen motel, where we enjoyed last showers and a bed, and I used their complimentary computer to fix our website.